James River offers attractions, even in winter

Despite the change of season and the cold weather, the James River Parks offer many opportunities for adventure that do not require the heat of summer. Both banks of the James have many trails that offer beautiful views of the river and surrounding scenery only visible in the winter.

Over the Robert E. Lee Bridge from VCU is Riverside Drive, which winds along the James and provides several access points to the parks. Belle Isle, Reedy Creek and 42nd Street are all located on the right side of Riverside Drive. All have parking lots to accommodate visitors year round.

“Winter is a good time to run and do exercise walking – cool, invigorating temperatures make for a nice work out, similarly good for biking,” stated park manager Ralph White in an e-mail. “Lack of vegetation also makes it the very best time to look at historic and geological features.”

Beth Noe, an alumna with a degree in painting and printmaking, frequents the James River Park year round.

“I do mountain bike rides … all the time,” said Noe. “I think people don’t really go to the river in the winter because they can’t go swimming or sunbathe. The water is the attraction.”

The first point of entry along Riverside Drive, at 21st Street, leads to Belle Isle. During the summer, Belle Isle is crowded with sunbathers, hikers and mountain bikes. During the fall and winter visitors are given relative solitude and the opportunity to see the river in a less crowded state.

A well maintained trail wraps around the entire island and provides wide views of Hollywood Rapids, which are located just off of the island, as well as Richmond’s skyline.

The same access point at 21st Street leads to a path, which follows the Norfolk Southern railroad tracks to the west along the James. This trail branches into many walkways out to the bank of the James.

“There’s a lot to see and do . this is the easiest time to see birds, listen to owls and spot deer and raccoons,” White stated.

This area of the park is slightly less traveled than Belle Isle and wildlife is more abundant in the more heavily wooded areas.

Farther along Riverside Drive is another entry to the park known as 42nd Street, which is a more natural section of the park and is connected to the Belle Isle section by the Buttermilk Trail.

“The steep granite cliffs of the rock quarries along the Buttermilk Trail stand out like huge historic relics of a forgotten past … sort of our Stonehenge,” White stated.

From the 42nd Street entrance, several smaller islands can be reached to give visitors a clear view both upriver and down toward Belle Isle.

Patrick Quinn, a painting and printmaking major, often visits the 42nd Street section of the park.

“It’s a peaceful, serene spot, but in the winter it’s only heightened,” Quinn said. “In the winter, (the river) seems like it is 40 miles further from the city. I also like that there’s no mosquitoes and no ticks.”

Since the river temperature is still relatively warm, the cold night temperatures cause steam to rise off its surface.

“In the morning, it’s possible to sit at the river’s edge and watch the mist melt as the sun rises,” White stated.

“Along with revealing the contours of the ancient river banks, the prominence of one species of tree jumps out-the tall, bare, white trunks of the American Sycamore stand out like the gleaming white teeth of some forest comb all along the river,” White stated.

The Buttermilk Trail continues along the banks of the James beyond the 42nd Street section of the park all the way to the Nickel Bridge, where the trail comes to an end. Visitors can continue down Riverside Drive and reach the Seaboard Coast Line Railway Bridge, completed in 1919 and known for its large arched structure.

Parking is limited, but walking paths lead down below the bridge to the river.

On the north bank of the James is North Bank Park, or Texas Beach, known for its isolation and limited maintenance. Bald eagles have been seen near this location as well as osprey and various other birds of prey.

“You have a view of downtown Richmond from the North Bank Trail that hasn’t been seen since the Kanawha Canal was closed down shortly after the Civil War,” White stated.

Park visitation has dwindled since summer’s end but as fall transitions to winter – and cold weather keeps many people indoors – others are still enjoying the beauty of the parks that only winter brings out.